Bev and
Bruce

Day 06 • Sun 2 Aug 2009

260 km (160 miles)
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Time for a cuppa after a jolting ride on gravel:


Mundubbera to Benaraby (near Gladstone)

via Monto-Gladstone Road

After such an adventurous and restless night, I woke tired and out-of-sorts, but eventually made it through the early morning routine. Bruce and I rearranged the contents of the van yet again to prevent further slippage of our possessions. I made one more visit to the amenities block only to find it was now closed for plumbing repairs. I resorted to the ‘family’ amenities room which was smelly, unclean and devoid of anywhere to put my washroom essentials. I was glad to leave.

The cooler, somewhat cloudy morning saw us setting out for Benaraby, a few kilometres south-west of Gladstone on the coast. Bruce had been unable to find a campervan site in Gladstone itself, our ultimate destination. He took the wheel as I was too tired to take the first shift and headed for Monto. I slept most of the way and woke as we entered Monto, an almost invisible hamlet where we stopped for refreshment. Being Sunday, this quiet place was almost silent. It was mid-day as we ate ice creams in our van, noting a handful of teenagers on the footpath outside the one open shop, all eating ice creams, the only people around. At that moment, Ros made another of her friendly calls which lifted my flagging spirits and soon after that we headed for the only service station available to fill up with fuel for the next leg of our journey.

By this time, I was fully awake. Once the van was refuelled, I took the wheel and drove on. For a while, the road was bitumen but before long, became a gravelled trail, obviously under repair. Bruce was a trifle concerned as we were not supposed to take the van on gravel, but it was too late to turn back as we had a tight schedule to maintain. We were in somewhat mountainous terrain now and the road became a winding, steep decline. I selected 3rd gear and kept my foot ready to depress the brake as I negotiated the large and heavy vehicle to the bottom of the gorge we were now in. Strangely, I was not concerned. After all, we were the only vehicle there, all was quiet and the scenery attractive. We reached the almost dry creek at the bottom of the gorge and decided it was the perfect place for lunch.

After we’d eaten hastily prepared rolls and sipped fresh coffee, we couldn’t resist going for a short walk through the nearby bush. There were a few ducks on the remaining mud pools and signs of grazing animals in the cow dung heaped everywhere, so we stepped carefully. Now and then a vehicle or two would pass so we felt we were not completely out in the Styx. Bruce took some more photos.

Bruce took the wheel for the final stretch all the way to Benaraby. Soon we reached the coastal highway near Gladstone, turned right again and drove south for the 2 or 3 kms to our selected caravan park at Benaraby. Once there, I waited while Bruce checked us in. We drove the van over an unusual entrance barrier which dropped as we approached it rather than rising up or opening and parked in our allocated spot which, thankfully, had its own en suite. This small room had a flight of wooden steps up to it, giving us a chance to scrape off the ubiquitous grass and dust from our shoes before entering its pristine cleanliness. I sighed with the relief of being able to freshen up before we set up camp for the evening.

As I sat sipping tea later, I noticed the laundry block a couple of hundred metres away. By now, almost a week into our trip, we had quite a pile of outer clothes, damp towels and other items in need of a good wash. I walked down to the laundry to see how it worked and noticed the washers needed three $1 coins to operate. I walked back, got the washing, all the necessary pegs, soap, rubber gloves, bucket and coat hangers and with Bruce to give me clues about operating the cash slots, returned to the laundry. I began to feel heavily tired again but kept going as there was still much to do. I put the big load of washing into the machine and we returned to the van. After enough time had passed for the washer to finish, I dragged myself back to the laundry and proceed to hang the wash on the line. I forced my feet to take me back once again to the van and under the now early evening sky, prepared our tea, enjoying that with Bruce under the stars. Then it was back to the laundry again to check how the wash was drying in the pleasantly warm air. I knew I’d have to leave it there overnight and calmed my fears about it being stolen by reassuring myself that no-one else would be interested in such daggy old clothes and tired linen. We had deliberately chosen our oldest clothing for the trip, sensibly realising it would be under duress in such unusual circumstances.

Already, I felt at home in this caravan park. It was pleasantly set out with just enough palm trees to allow a sense of privacy. Its dry dustiness did not bother us too much and its relaxed atmosphere was to allow us some ‘down’ time and space to rediscover the pleasures of eating outdoors and restoring a sense of order to the van. We’d been rearranging our possessions so often that my system of mnemonics, usually so reliable, just imploded. Thoughts of Patrick White’s ‘Voss’ setting off into the Australian wilderness and all his privations came to my mind. In this reflective and very fatigued frame of mind, I considered what might be ahead of us, but I knew my passion to see more of our country before it was too late would see me through these moments of doubt, fatigue and discomfort. We went to bed in a hopeful frame of mind.

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