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Bev took the wheel This stretch of driving was notable for the number of anthills    Burke and Wills Roadhouse where the Burke Development Road and the Wills Development Road cross about half way between Normanton and Cloncurry:  Google gives another perspective:   Approaching Mount Isa:   |
Normanton to Mount Isa
We woke early enough to see the moon and stars disappear as dawn began. The
moonlight up there, because there are no competing lights on the ground, is
astonishingly bright and had given me confidence to leave the torch behind
in my midnight foray to the amenities block. As we ate a simple meal, Ros
called on one of her regular connections. We were glad to hear from her.
Soon after, we were on our way. At 9.00 a.m. I was delighted to be driving
in the freshness of the morning down the Matilda Highway where there was
little traffic apart from the ubiquitous caravans, four-wheel drives with
trailers and campervans. I had long since become confident in putting my
foot down on the accelerator and overtaking them.
After 150 kms, I pulled into the shade of an overhanging tree at the only
place of welcome on the long drive, the Burke and Wills roadhouse. It was
abuzz with activity as many of the huge road-trains stopped here for
refuelling and refreshments. Several of them were already on the verandah
outside the long internal tourist centre supermarket and looked at us ‘city
slickers’ with some amusement. On the road outside, three long road-trains
full of cattle were parked. I watched closely for a while as I could see a
cattle-handler in among the cattle, no doubt checking to see all was well
with the animals and climbing over them with ease and familiarity as he did
so. The sight moved me and filled me with a new passion for our country in
all its diversity. And all around were ‘Aussie’ colours: rust red sand,
golden grass, grey-green bush and clear blue sky. For a few precious
moment, I was privately flying high . . .
After refreshing ourselves, Bruce took the wheel. But now the day was
beginning to really heat up. Bruce became irritated with the van’s totally
inadequate cooling arrangements. I checked the instruction book which
informed us if it were hot outside it wouldn’t be possible to be cooler
insider the vehicle. Bruce was not happy about that. In this mood of great
frustration and discomfort we reached Cloncurry, hoping to see a likely
place to stop for lunch. But, on this first visit, what we saw looked dry,
desolate and uninviting. We decided to keep going and watch for somewhere
else. But there was nothing. Bruce, now dry, thirsty and fed up, pulled off
the road suddenly, parked under a nearby tree and made a pot of tea. I
decided I didn’t want to eat in such a hot, dry place and sat sipping my tea
while sitting on the van running board and gazing dispiritedly at the small,
sparsely covered hill in front of me.
I took the wheel again, coping with slightly more numerous road-trains and
caravans than previously and negotiating the winding, hill road to Mount
Isa. I couldn’t complain about the condition of the road which was
excellent, or the view which was more of the grandeur we’d already been
soaking up, but I felt quite flat and tired nevertheless. At least we could
speed along, slowed down only by heavier vehicles lumbering along or by our
ancient vehicle’s lack of torque in top gear, necessitating much activity
with the gear stick.
Surprise and delight were not far away however. As we drew near to Mount
Isa, the terrain changed again. Extraordinary red hills began to project to
the sky all round us. Bruce sat up, re-energised again, and began to take
photos. Before long, we’d reached the outskirts of the city and pulled into
‘Argylla’ our caravan park. We checked in to the cheerful and very dusty
place and I backed the van into our spot. We were both tired after such a
long, hot and challenging drive and I still had to shower, make tea, do the
washing and clean up the van before thinking of rest. I went about all
these activities slowly, taking in the surrounding plethora of tents, vans
and caravans, and noting that the big park was completely full of
holiday-makers. Mount Isa is a popular place!